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   Kodak Kodamatic (old style)     to list of articles

       ©Infotech 2004

Caution: This article is provided for information purposes only. Neither Infotech nor the author can be liable for any damage caused when following these instructions. Success in camera repair depends on the skill of the technician. If you're new to camera repair, please practice on equipment that has no value before working on a unit you want to save. We have checked the article for errors. However, if there are errors, the extent of our liability is to correct such errors when we learn about them.

Kodak manufactured the old-style Kodamatic (lever-set with 7 shutter speeds), Fig. 1, from 1921~1934. The old-style Kodamatic came in two sizes—a small version (#1 or #1A) and a large version (#2 or #3A). In 1937, Kodak started making the new-style Kodamatic (ring-set with 5 shutter speeds). The Flash Kodamatic appeared in 1946.

The old-style Kodamatic, Fig. 1, provides shutter speeds of 1/2 second through 1/150 second, time, and bulb. At the bulb setting, the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the release lever. At the time setting, the shutter continues to stay open after the release lever returns. Close the shutter by pushing the release lever a second time.

Cock the shutter by pushing down the cocking lever, Fig. 1; release the shutter by pushing down the release lever, also shown in Fig. 1. If you cock the shutter at a slow-speed setting, you'll hear the "buzz" of slow-speed governor. Newer shutters disengage the pallet of the slow-speed governor during the cocking motion—the gears of the slow-speed governor then move quickly and quietly to the ready position. But the pallet remains engaged at all settings in the Kodamatic. So, as the retard lever moves to the ready position, it must turn the gears against the opposition of the pallet.

The diaphragm scale has a unique feature—a "calculator" to help you determine the proper settings according to the lighting conditions. Set the diaphragm opening by turning the diaphragm-setting ring until its index aligns with the f/stop you want. Then note the shutter speed that aligns with the exposure conditions.

REMOVING THE FRONT PLATE
In many ways, the design of the Kodamatic is unique among blade-type shutters. Plus the Kodamatic isn't an easy shutter to disassemble and reassemble. If you're new to camera repair, you might want to work on some of the simpler shutters before tackling a Kodamatic. And if you are experienced on other shutters, you'll appreciate the quality of the Kodamatic. To remove the front plate, proceed as follows:

1. Unscrew the front lens group (you might also unscrew the rear lens group and put it aside to prevent damage).
2. Remove the large screw at the pivot of the cocking lever, Fig. 1.
3. Remove the cocking lever—3 small screws.
4. Remove the shutter-speed calibration plate (the plate with the Kodamatic name) by taking out the large screw and the 2 small screws, Fig. 1.
5. Lift out the speed-setting lever, Fig. 2. A pin on the back of the speed-setting lever passes through the slot in the speed-control lever, Fig. 3.

Note: The eccentric shown in Fig. 2 provides an adjustment for the retard engagement. You can reach the eccentric at the 1/150-second setting with the shutter-speed calibration plate removed. When the manufacturer provides an access for an adjustment at a certain shutter speed, you know to make the adjustment at that speed. Normally there should be no retard at the fastest shutter speed—the shutter operates as fast as it can. With such an old shutter, you probably aren't concerned about shutter-speed accuracy (especially at the fastest shutter speed).

6. Lift out the round nameplate around the lens opening, Fig. 3. The round nameplate sits on top of the diaphragm-setting ring.
7. Turn the diaphragm-setting ring until you can reach both screws holding the exposure scale, Fig. 1.
8. Remove the 2 screws holding the exposure scale. Careful: The 2 spacers under the exposure scale at the screw-hole positions are now loose. Remove the 2 spacers.
9. Lift out the diaphragm-setting ring together with the exposure scale.
10. Remove the speed-detent plate, Fig. 3, by taking out the 2 post screws, Fig. 4. The post screws provide the screw holes for the shutter-speed calibration plate.
11. Remove the 4 screws holding the front plate—the long screw, Fig. 4, and the 3 short screws (you can see 2 of the short screws in Fig. 4; the other short screw is under the speed-detent plate).
12. Lift off the front plate.
13. Remove the loose washer shown in Fig. 5.

REPLACING THE FRONT PLATE
1. Seat the front plate and replace the 4 screws—remember the position of the long front-plate screw, Fig. 4.
2. Replace the speed-detent plate with the 2 post screws, Fig. 4.
3. Turn the diaphragm-setting gear, Fig. 4, to fully open the diaphragm.
4. Seat the diaphragm-setting ring as shown in Fig. 6. Here we've aligned the last full tooth slot of the diaphragm-setting ring with the center of the post screw as shown by the blue line in Fig. 6. From this point, be careful to avoid disengaging the diaphragm-setting ring from the diaphragm-setting gear.
5. Slide the exposure scale into one end of the index scale. Replace the 2 spacers under the screw holes of the exposure scale and replace the 2 screws.
6. The round nameplate, Fig. 3, has 3 notches—the notches provide clearance for the 2 post screws and the post for the speed-setting lever, Fig. 2. Be careful to avoid disengaging the diaphragm-setting ring from the diaphragm-setting gear as you slide the bottom edge of the round nameplate under the front edge of the index scale. It may be necessary to slightly lift the front edge of the index scale while holding the diaphragm-setting ring engaged with the diaphragm-setting gear.
7. Replace the speed-setting lever, passing its downward-projecting pin through the slot in the speed-control lever, Fig. 2. Make sure you can turn the speed-setting lever through the full range. If not, the pin of the speed-setting lever probably isn't within the slot in the speed-control lever.

Lubrication: Lubricate a few of the notches in the speed-detent plate with grease, Fig. 3. As you change shutter speeds, the speed-setting lever will carry grease to the other notches. Greasing the detent notches makes it easier to move the speed-setting lever as well as minimizing wear.

8. Replace the shutter-speed calibration plate with the 3 screws, Fig. 1.
9. Replace the cocking lever with its 3 small screws. Lock the small screws with a touch of lacquer on the heads (such as nail polish). Or put a little Loctite™ on the threads of the screws to prevent them from working loose. It's not necessary to lock most of the screws in a shutter. But, since the screws that hold the cocking lever have small threads, they may otherwise work loose.
10. Replace the large screw for the cocking lever.

SHUTTER OPERATION
To check and study the operation, you might want to temporarily replace the cocking lever with its 3 small screws—the cocking lever mounts on top of the main-drive cam, Fig. 5. You can now more easily cock and release the shutter. The main-drive cam, like the main lever in other shutters, drives the shutter blades to the open position. Most shutters use a spring to close the shutter blades. But the main-drive cam in the Kodamatic also drives the shutter blades in the closing direction.

Fig. 5 shows the shutter in the released position. Cocking the shutter turns the main-drive cam in a counterclockwise direction—against the tension of the mainspring. It's a little difficult to see the mainspring at this stage of disassembly; the mainspring sits under the drive-cam bridge, Fig. 7. The mainspring coils encircle the main-drive cam. But you can see the upper end of the mainspring that hooks to the adjusting ring, Fig. 8. You can rotate the mainspring-adjusting ring to adjust the mainspring tension as we'll describe in a moment.

In the cocked position, Fig. 7, the release lever latches the main-drive cam. You can't as yet clearly see the latching operation—it's pretty well hidden by the drive-cam bridge. But, with the shutter cocked, you can see the tooth on the main-drive cam, Fig. 8. The single tooth on the main-drive cam drives the retard lever.

When you release the shutter, the main-drive cam rotates clockwise. A geared section of the main-drive cam then engages the blade-ring gear, Fig. 8. Now the main-drive cam turns the blade-ring gear in a counterclockwise direction to open the shutter blades. You'll be able to see how the blade-ring gear opens the shutter blades in a moment.

Once the shutter blades reach the open position, the single tooth on the main-drive cam, Fig. 8, engages the retard lever—the single tooth enters the tooth slot at the end of the retard lever. Now the main-drive cam must push the retard lever in a counterclockwise direction—against the resistance of the slow-speed governor.

The slower the shutter speed you select, the longer it takes for the main-drive cam to move past the retard lever. Once freed, the main-drive cam completes its clockwise rotation to close the shutter blades. The geared section of the main-drive cam again drives the blade-ring gear in a counterclockwise direction. The blade-ring gear completes its rotation, closing the shutter blades.

Now the antireverse lever, Fig. 8, drops behind the pin of the blade-ring gear. The antireverse lever prevents the blade-ring gear from turning in the clockwise direction. If the blade-ring gear turns clockwise, it also opens the shutter blades. So, at the end of the exposure, the antireverse lever prevents the blades from bouncing open. And, during the cocking cycle, the antireverse lever prevents the blades from opening.

Note: There may be no such word as antireverse—at least not in the dictionary. But you'll find this and similar terms in factory repair manuals that have been translated from German or Japanese.

You can see how the blade-ring gear opens and closes the shutter blades in Fig. 9. Here we're showing the blade-ring gear with the main-drive cam, retard lever, and antireverse lever removed. A hole in the blade-ring lever fits over a pin on the blade-operating ring (the ring under the mechanism plate that carries the shutter blades)—you can just see the pin passing through the blade-ring lever and the slot in the mechanism plate through which the pin moves.

A cam on the blade-ring gear fits in the center hole of the blade-ring lever. As the blade-ring gear starts to rotate, its cam moves the blade-ring lever to open the shutter blades. The cam on the blade-ring gear then drives the blade-ring lever in the motion that closes the shutter blades. The mechanism that opens and closes the shutter blades is unique among blade-type shutters. Most shutters use a much simpler mechanism—a spring-loaded  lever. The main lever of the shutter drives the spring-loaded lever in the direction that opens the shutter blades. The spring then drives the lever in the direction that closes the shutter blades.

SHUTTER-SPEED CONTROL
The slow-speed governor (under the speed-control lever in Fig. 10) controls the shutter speeds. You've seen that the downward-projecting pin on the speed-setting lever passes through a slot in the speed-control lever, Fig. 10. The eccentric you saw earlier attaches the retard-coupling lever to the speed-control lever. A downward-projecting pin on the retard-coupling lever passes through slots in both the retard lever and the first-gear segment of the slow-speed governor.

As you set slower shutter speeds, the slotted end of the speed-control lever moves to the right in Fig. 10. Try moving the slotted end of the speed-control lever fully to the right in Fig. 10—that's the 1/2-second setting. When you release the shutter, you should get the slowest shutter speed.

Note: If you get a fast shutter speed at the 1/2-second setting, check the coupling of the retard-coupling lever—the downward-projecting pin may have come out of the retard-lever slot.

Set a faster shutter speed by moving the speed-control lever to the left in Fig. 10. The retard lever doesn't move, but its slot guides the retard-coupling lever. The retard-coupling lever moves the first-gear segment counterclockwise. As a result, the retard engages for a shorter period of time—a faster shutter speed. Finally, at 1/150 second, the retard lever doesn't move as the shutter releases. There's nothing to slow down the rotation of the main-drive cam.     

TIME AND BULB OPERATION
At the 1/150-second setting, Fig. 10, the lower end of the speed-control lever comes against a tab on the time/bulb-control lever. Moving the speed-control lever further in a counterclockwise direction pushes the time/bulb-control lever in a clockwise direction. The upper end of  the time/bulb-control lever now frees the bulb lever, Fig. 11. Pushing the speed-control lever one more step in a clockwise direction also frees the time lever, Fig. 11.

The speed-control lever won't now remain at the time or bulb setting—the spring on the time/bulb-control lever pushes the speed-control lever to the 1/150-second position. With the shutter assembled, the speed-setting lever, held by the speed-detent plate, holds the speed-control lever. To simulate the operation at time, push the speed-control lever fully counterclockwise—and hold the speed-control lever in place.

When you release the shutter, the bulb lever first stops the main-drive cam with the shutter fully open. The bulb lever engages the lug on the main-drive cam that's held by the time lever in Fig. 11. Letting the release lever return disengages the bulb lever from the main-drive cam—the lower end of the release lever comes against the tail of the bulb lever, pulling the bulb lever out of engagement.

At the bulb setting, that's all there is to the operation. The main-drive cam, now free to complete its rotation, closes the shutter. But at the time setting, the main-drive cam rotates only a slight distance before it's stopped by the time lever. The shutter remains open—even though the release lever has returned to its rest position. To close the shutter, push the release lever a second time. A tab on the release lever then comes against the time lever. Now the release lever pushes the time lever out of engagement with the main-drive cam.

SHUTTER DISASSEMBLY
1. Lift out the speed-control lever together with the retard-coupling lever, Fig. 10.

Note: You now have a better view of the slow-speed governor, the slotted arm of the first-gear segment, and the slotted arm of the retard lever, Fig. 12. Remember that the downward-projecting pin on the retard-coupling lever must pass through both slots—that's how the retard lever connects to the slow-speed governor. It's usually not necessary to remove the top plate of the slow-speed governor; you can remove the complete slow-speed governor as a unit. For illustration purposes, we've removed the top plate of the slow-speed governor in Fig. 13. Here you can see the first-gear segment that connects to the retard-coupling lever.

In some cases, you may want to remove just the top plate of the slow-speed governor. You can then clean individual gears without disturbing the position of the slow-speed governor as described in #2 below. If so, return the top-plate screws to their original positions. The heads of the screws are beveled to match the shape of the top plate.

2. The slow-speed governor has a shifting adjustment. After loosening the 2 screws (one at each end), you can shift the pallet end of the slow-speed governor. The adjustment has its greatest effect at the fastest shutter speed that uses retard.

You might want to scribe the adjusted position of the slow-speed governor. Just scribe the mechanism plate, tracing the shape of the bottom plate of the slow-speed governor. Then cock the shutter (turn the main-drive cam to the cocked position). Cocking the shutter allows you to reach the screw at the first-gear-segment end of the slow-speed governor. Remove the two end screws and lift out the complete slow-speed governor.

Note: For many repairs—such as cleaning and lubrication—that may be as far as you want to go in disassembly. For your reference, we'll complete the disassembly here. Most of the remaining sequence isn't critical. You can remove the main-drive cam without removing the time and bulb levers. Or you can leave the main-drive cam in place. However, if you have to remove the release lever, it's necessary to first take out the mechanism plate—the post that holds the release lever is staked in place.

To remove the time and bulb levers, proceed as follows: 
1. Remove the time/bulb-control lever, Fig. 14—hold the long end of the time/bulb-control-lever spring away from the shutter housing as you lift the time/bulb-control lever up and off its post. The spring should stay with the time/bulb-control lever.
2. Disconnect the bulb-lever spring from the mechanism-plate post, Fig. 15. Move the disconnected end of the bulb-lever spring clear of the time lever, Fig. 16.
3. Disconnect the time-lever spring from the edge of the time lever, Fig. 16.
4. Remove the screw holding the time lever, Fig. 16. The time-lever spring stays with the screw.
5. Lift out the time lever, Fig. 16.
6. Disconnect and remove the bulb-lever spring, Fig. 15.
7. Lift out the bulb lever, Fig. 16.

REMOVING THE MAIN-DRIVE CAM
One of the unique features of the Kodamatic shutter is that you can adjust the initial tension of the mainspring. The mainspring has a partial turn of initial tension; you're adding to the initial tension when you cock the main-drive cam. With most shutters, you apply the initial tension as you connect the mainspring—you usually have to tension the mainspring slightly just to reach the connection point. But in the Kodamatic you add the initial tension by turning the adjusting ring, Fig. 15.

The upper end of the mainspring, Fig. 16, connects to the adjusting ring. After loosening the adjusting-ring screws, Fig. 17, you can turn the adjusting ring—clockwise to add tension, counterclockwise to let off tension. Why change the initial tension? After a period of time, a mainspring suffers from fatigue—a loss of strength. If you leave the shutter in the cocked position, the mainspring loses strength more quickly. Bringing in the fastest shutter speed with most shutters often requires replacing the mainspring.

But other factors also affect the shutter-speed accuracy—the cleanliness of the shutter, the condition of the shutter blades and other parts, wear, proper lubrication, etc. You can't just increase the mainspring tension to bring in the fastest shutter speed. With excessive tension, the main-drive cam runs through the slow speeds too fast. Plus the shutter may be hard to cock. Excessive initial tension may also damage the mainspring—that could be a major problem with an antique because replacement parts aren't available. Since you probably aren't concerned with shutter-speed accuracy—and you can't replace worn parts—it's safest to simply retain the same amount of initial tension. If the shutter is clean and in good condition, it should operate properly without any initial tension.

You can remove the main-drive cam without disturbing the position of the adjusting ring. After reassembly, the mainspring then has the same amount of initial tension as it had before. Proceed as follows:

1. Cock the main-drive cam. Just insert your tweezers into two of the screw holes at the top of the main-drive cam; then turn the main-drive cam counterclockwise to the cocked position.
2. Remove the screw that holds the guide plate, Fig. 18. Then loosen the bridge screw that's next to the guide-plate screw.
3. Shift the position of the guide plate to clear the retard lever, Fig. 19. Lift out the retard lever.
4. Push the release lever to release the main-drive cam.

Note: It's possible, but not necessary, to lock the position of the main-drive cam, thereby preventing the mainspring from losing its initial tension. Remove the the locking screw, Fig. 17. Then insert a long screw (around 5mm) into the screw hole for the locking screw. The long screw comes against a shoulder of the main-drive cam, Fig. 20, to prevent the mainspring from unwinding. If you don't have a long screw to lock the main-drive cam, there's no crisis—you can add the initial tension on reassembly.

5. Remove the two bridge screws, Fig. 17, and the guide plate.
6. Lift out the main-drive-cam assembly, Fig. 20, together with the drive-cam bridge and the mainspring. If you locked the position of the main-drive cam, the long screw you installed, Fig. 20, prevents the mainspring from losing its initial tension. If you didn't lock the main-drive cam, let off the initial tension as you lift out the main-drive-cam assembly. We'll describe the procedure for reinstalling the initial tension on reassembly.

COMPLETING DISASSEMBLY OF THE MECHANISM-PLATE PARTS
1. Disconnect the release-lever spring from the tab on the release lever, Fig. 21; lift out the release-lever spring.
2. Remove the support plate, Fig. 21 (2 screws).
3. Remove the screw holding the antireverse lever, Fig. 21.  Caution: Be very careful to avoid losing the spring for the antireverse lever—the spring will be loose and enjoys flying away. Hold the long end of the antireverse-lever spring away from the shutter housing as you lift the antireverse lever up and off its post.
4. Lift out the blade-ring gear and the blade-ring lever, Fig. 21.
5. Turn the diaphragm-setting gear, Fig. 21, counterclockwise to fully open the diaphragm.
6. Scribe the diaphragm-control ring with respect to the mechanism plate; when you align the scribe lines on reassembly, the diaphragm is fully open.
7. Remove the diaphragm-setting gear, Fig. 21 (1 screw).
8. Remove the diaphragm-control ring, Fig. 21 (3 screws). The diaphragm leaves are riveted to the underside of the diaphragm-control ring.

REMOVING THE MECHANISM PLATE
Once again you're at a point where you might say, "That's far enough." The mechanism plate, Fig. 22, may not be easy to remove. The main problem is that the mechanism plate has a tight fit over its 2 locating pins. Another problem is that the post holding the release lever is staked to the mechanism plate—you can't as yet remove the release lever. To remove the mechanism plate, it's necessary to slide the release lever through the slot in the shutter housing.

The release lever may have a knob on the end that's outside of the shutter—a knob that won't fit through the slot in the shutter housing. The knob is normally in 2 sections that are press-fit together—the back section has a long tube that passes through a hole in the release lever and through the front section of the knob. You may then have to pry off the rear section, pulling its tube out of the front section.

To remove the mechanism plate,  first take out the screws shown in Fig. 22—2 regular screws and 4 post screws. One of the post screws is slightly different from the other 3—the post screw next to the release lever has an undercut section; the undercut provides clearance for the release lever.

The mechanism may still appear to be firmly mounted to the shutter housing; but that's only because of the tight fit the mechanism plate has over its locating pins. Try grasping one of the long mechanism-plate posts with your fingers. Then try to lift the mechanism plate while slightly working it from side to side. Once you get the mechanism plate free from one locating pin, try grasping the other long post. Repeat the lifting/wiggling procedure until both locating pins are free of the mechanism plate. Then lift the side of the mechanism plate that's opposite from the release lever. Lift out the mechanism plate while sliding the release lever through the slot in the shutter housing.

You can now reach the shutter blades, Fig. 23. Although the blades appear identical, each uses a different hole to engage the blade-operating ring. You might try to keep the blades in order—replace each blade at the same pin position as it previously occupied. If you mix up the blades, the hole in one—a hole not previously used—may not fit over the blade-operating-ring pin.

The blade-base plate and the blade-operating ring (under the blade-base plate) are one assembly. You can clean the assembly together with the shutter housing. If you want to remove the blade-base plate, first scribe its rotational position with respect to the shutter housing. Then remove the 5 screws holding the blade-base plate, Fig. 24. Lift out the blade-base plate together with the blade-operating ring.

REPLACING THE SHUTTER BLADES AND MECHANISM PLATE
1. Replace the blade-base plate by aligning your scribe marks. If you didn't scribe the blade-base plate, locate the long pin on the blade-operating ring—this pin engages the blade-ring lever. Position the shutter with the cable-release socket positioned as shown in Fig. 24. Then seat the blade-base plate with the long blade-operating-ring pin at around an 11 o'clock position. Replace the 5 screws holding the blade-base plate. Check by moving the long pin of the blade-operating ring in the opening and closing directions. The blade-operating ring should move very freely.

2. Seat the first shutter blade at the position shown in Fig. 23—notice that one of the 2 lower holes goes over the long pin of the blade-operating ring. The post on the underside of the shutter blade passes into the slot in the blade-base plate, Fig. 24.

3. Seat the second shutter blade at the first pin position counterclockwise of the first shutter blade. Now it's the top hole that passes over the blade-operating-ring pin. Make sure that the post on the underside of the shutter blade passes into the slot in the blade-base plate, Fig. 24.

4. Seat the final shutter blade at the remaining pin position. Notice that the third blade uses the other of the two lower holes (next to the hole used by the first shutter blade). Check by carefully moving the long pin on the blade-operating ring. Make sure the shutter blades open and close smoothly.

5. Seat the mechanism plate by passing the release lever through the slot in the shutter housing. Turn the mechanism plate until the screw holes align. The two locating holes should now be over the two locating pins. Push down the mechanism plate until it seats fully. Check again to make sure the shutter blades open and close smoothly.

6. Replace the 4 post screws and the 2 regular screws that hold the mechanism plate, Fig. 22. Again check the freedom of the shutter blades and the freedom of the release lever.

COMPLETING THE REASSEMBLY
1. Make sure the diaphragm leaves in the diaphragm-control ring are still in the full open position. Shift the diaphragm leaves as necessary to align their inside edges with the inner circumference of the diaphragm-control ring. Then seat the diaphragm assembly by aligning your scribe lines. Note that one edge of the diaphragm-control ring fits under the edge of the release lever. The pins on the diaphragm leaves should now be aligned with the slots in the mechanism plate. Replace the 3 screws that hold down the diaphragm-control ring, Fig. 21. Check by turning the diaphragm-control ring. Make sure the diaphragm leaves close and open smoothly and evenly.

2. Seat the diaphragm-setting gear and replace its screw. Again check the diaphragm operation by turning the diaphragm-setting gear.

3. Seat the coils of the release-lever spring over the post next to the diaphragm-setting gear, Fig. 26—the straight end of the release-lever spring goes down. Connect the upper end of the release-lever spring against the side of the diaphragm-setting gear shaft (the side facing the center of the shutter). Then hook the lower end of the release-lever spring to the tab on the release lever, Fig. 26.

Lubricate the latching surface of the release lever, Fig. 9, with shutter grease.

4. Replace the blade-ring lever and the blade-ring gear, Fig. 25. Rotate the blade-ring gear—make sure it turns smoothly, and the blades open and close.

5. Fit the coil of the antireverse-lever spring inside the antireverse lever as shown in Fig. 25—hook the short end of the spring to the inside edge of the antireverse lever. Hold the long end of the antireverse-lever spring against its spring tension as you seat the antireverse lever over its post. Make sure the antireverse lever moves freely by its spring tension. Then replace the screw.

Put a touch of shutter grease on the end of the antireverse lever that latches the pin on the blade-ring gear, Fig. 25. Also put a little grease on the end of the antireverse-lever spring that rides against the shutter housing, Fig. 25. The spring will then slide more easily.

6. Replace the support plate, Fig. 21, with its 2 screws.

7. Seat the coils of the release-lever spring over the post next to the diaphragm-setting gear. The straight end of the release-lever spring goes down and connects to the tab on the release lever. The upper end of the release-lever spring connects against the shaft of the diaphragm-setting gear, Fig. 26.

Lightly lubricate the post for the main-drive cam with soft grease. The grease should galling and/or seizing between the post and the bearing of the main-drive cam.

8. If you locked the main-drive cam against the tension of the mainspring, you can now seat the assembly. Pass the hole in the main-drive cam over the mechanism-plate post. Make sure the stop lug on the main-drive cam, Fig. 26, sits to the right of the stop lug on the mechanism plate, Fig. 25. Replace the short bridge screw, Fig. 26. Remove the long screw you installed to hold the mainspring tension. Then install the locking screw, Fig. 17.

If you didn't lock the mainspring, apply the initial tension as you seat the main-drive cam. Turn the main-drive cam slightly counterclockwise (as seen from the top) until its stop lug is in the position shown in Fig. 26. Then hold the main-drive cam against the tension of the mainspring as you seat the assembly—make sure the stop lug on the main-drive cam, Fig. 26, passes to the right of the stop lug on the mechanism plate, Fig. 25. Once you've seated the assembly, you no longer have to hold the main-drive cam against the tension of the mainspring—the stop lug on the mechanism plate holds the main-drive cam, preventing the mainspring from unwinding.

9. Seat the guide plate under the drive-cam bridge, Fig. 26. Replace the long bridge screw that goes next to the guide plate, Fig. 26. Do not as yet tighten the long bridge screw.

Lubricate the bearing for the retard lever with shutter grease (or lubricate the shaft of the retard lever).

10. Cock the main-drive cam by turning it counterclockwise. Seat the retard lever as shown in Fig. 19; the shaft of the retard lever fits in the mechanism-plate bearing hole. Shift the guide plate as necessary for clearance as you seat the retard lever.

11. Align the guide plate, Fig. 18, with its other screw hole in the drive-cam bridge. Replace the small screw that holds the guide plate. Tighten the bridge screw.

12. Seat the bulb lever with its spring over the mechanism-plate post as shown in Fig. 27. Don't as yet connect the long end of the bulb-lever spring.

Use grease to lubricate the tab on the bulb lever that engages the main-drive cam.

13. Seat the time lever over its post, Fig. 16. Replace the screw that holds the time lever (the time-lever spring should still be with the screw). Hook the short end of the time-lever spring against the edge of the time lever.  Hook the long end of the time-lever spring to the inside of the shutter housing. Check the time lever for freedom of movement by pushing the time lever in a clockwise direction; the time-lever spring should then return the time lever in a counterclockwise direction.

Lubricate the latching end of the time lever with shutter grease. Also put a touch of grease on the end of the time-lever spring that rides against the housing. The spring will then slide more easily.

14. Bring the long end of the bulb-lever spring in a counterclockwise direction and connect it to the post for the release-lever spring. The long end of the bulb-lever spring should sit above the coils of the release-lever spring and below the lip on top of the post.

Lubricate the post for the time/bulb-control lever with shutter grease. Also apply a touch of grease to the end of the time/bulb-control-lever spring that rides against the shutter housing.

15. Replace the time/bulb-control lever with its spring, Fig. 28.

Use shutter grease to lubricate the cam-shaped end of the time/bulb-control lever that comes against the tabs of the time lever and the bulb lever. Also lubricate the inside of the retard-lever slot (the slot for the pin on the retard-coupling lever) with grease.

Use dry moly to lubricate the slow-speed governor. Blow some dry moly into the gear train. Move the long arm of the first-gear segment a few times to work in the dry moly. Then blow out the excess dry moly with an air blower.

16. Cock the shutter. Then replace the slow-speed governor with its 2 screws—notice that the first-gear-segment end of the slow-speed governor fits over a locating pin. If you scribed the position, align the slow-speed governor with your scribe mark before tightening the screws.

Lubricate the inside of the slot in the first-gear segment (the slot for the pin on the retard-coupling lever) with grease. Also use grease to lightly lubricate the post for the speed-control lever.

17. Replace the speed-control lever, Fig. 28. Make sure the downward-projecting pin on the retard-coupling lever passes through the slots in the first-gear segment and in the retard-coupling lever. Check by moving the speed-control lever fully clockwise. When you release the shutter, you should get 1/2 second. The main-drive cam should move smoothly through the retard—even with no initial tension on the mainspring. If the main-drive cam seems to struggle, the slow-speed governor may still be dirty.

Lubricate the end of the speed-control lever that comes against the tab on the time/bulb-control lever with grease. Also put a little grease on the inside of the speed-control-lever slot that receives the pin on the speed-setting lever.

Replace the washer on the post for the speed-control lever before you replace the front plate. See, Replacing the Front Plate for the remaining reassembly.